Under this new name, the United States Coast Guard, but with all the old values, on August the 16th, 1918, there occurred here what one author describes as "perhaps THE most dramatic rescue in US Maritime History." World War I had raged for four years. German "U-boats" were decimating Allied shipping along the Atlantic and Gulf coasts unchallenged. As per regulations, the watchtower of the new Chicamacomico Station was manned for constant lookout. On duty this day was Leroy Midgett. From his position in the tower, he had been observing the northward passage of a foreign tanker five miles offshore. It was the British ship Mirlo. She had taken on a full cargo of 6,679 tons of gasoline in New Orleans and was proceeding home with this vital wartime materiel. At 4:00 p.m. he could scarcely believe his eyes on this clear, warm and sunny August day as an explosion rocked the Mirlo. The ship immediately changed course, as the captain had obviously decided to attempt to beach the stricken vessel. But there was another explosion. Then another. This last one split the Mirlo in half, dumping those thousands of gallons of highly inflammable liquids into the sea. Gasoline floats on water. And then it ignited. An inferno ensued. Acres of walls of flames extended as high as 100 feet according to some witnesses. Captain William Rouse Williams of the Mirlo had three lifeboats launched. One got away safely. The second was overloaded so much so that the oars could not be used properly, and it could only drift aimlessly as the sailors watched the burning seas slowly catch up to them. Sometimes the lifeboat nearly swamped amid this horror. The third fouled in the riggings on the way down, capsized, and catapulted its occupants into this inferno.

Captain John Allen "Cap'n Johnny" Midgett, Jr., the keeper in charge of Chicamacomico had immediately responded to Leroy Midgett's announcement from the lookout tower. Surfboat No. 1046 was launched with six lifesavers aboard. Due to heavy surf, it took them thirty minutes to get out to sea. During this daring and strenuous rescue, John Allen Midgett, Jr. and his crew of surfboat No. 1046 encountered Mirlo lifeboat No. 1, instructing them to wait for their help. They then went through the wall of flames, which scorched the paint and blistered the wood on their surfboat, to rescue the survivors of the capsized lifeboat. They next searched seven miles south to locate the overloaded drifting third lifeboat. Surfboat No. 1046 towed all survivors to shore. NINE HOURS AFTER THE INCIDENT began, forty-two British sailors were landed safe and alive on the beach of Chicamacomico. Almost immediately, the six Chicamacomico surfmen were awarded the King George Medal for Bravery. Shortly thereafter they received the United States Gold Lifesaving Medal of Honor. Some years later, they all were honored with another commendation. In 1906, Congress created the highest award the US Government would issue. It was called the Grand Cross of the American Cross of Honor. There were extremely stringent requirements to be met for this award. In the entire history of this medal, only eleven were ever issued nationwide. SIX OF THOSE ELEVEN went to the crew of Chicamacomico Surfboat No. 1046. That very boat sits inside the 1874 station today.

Changing times

Life changed slowly on Hatteras Island. Its isolation greatly restricted outside influence and perpetuated a continuance of the old ways. By the year 1954, however, several changes did occur that had profound impacts. Hatteras Island got its very first paved road that year, vastly improving travel time and contact on the island. Years earlier, the telegraph and then the telephone had done the same for improving communications. What would produce THE single biggest impact for the United States Coast Guard was the invention and perfection of the helicopter. These speedy and highly maneuverable machines could be stationed safely much farther away yet still get to a rescue site more quickly. "Choppers" could also cover a much larger range as well as stay out longer than a surfboat. Modern, larger, more powerful boats could do the same. The last breaches buoy rescue performed by the United States Coast Guard was also in that same year of 1954.

Thinking now changed. The design, location and number of stations were seriously reconsidered. In that momentous year of 1954, the Chicamacomico Station was totally abandoned.

Staff moved elsewhere or retired. Chicamacomico was alone and lost. Forgotten. Neglected, it fell into obvious disrepair. Vandalism, storms and time took their toll. There was even talk to burn the neglected original station. Gallantly to its rescue came the formation of the Chicamacomico Historical Association in 1974. They faced twenty years of deterioration, but miraculously all seven buildings remained. As a private, nonprofit 501(c)(3), entirely through volunteer efforts, restoration began. Starting in 1983, the first steps were taken. Efforts spearheaded by Carolista Baum, David Stick, and Woodrow Edwards began to manifest dramatic, tangible results due to the work of restorer Ken Wenberg. Today the Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station Historic Site can boast of this amazing superlative: it is the only existing US Life-Saving Service complex in the US with ALL of its original buildings

The Legacy

Chicamacomico was -and is- a particularly proud member of a very proud service. In the history of the United States Life-Saving Service nation-wide, from 1874 until 1915, surfmen combined to come to the aid of 178,000 shipwreck victims whose lives were in peril. Of those, 177,000 were saved. That is an incredible success record of 99.4%! Equally incredible, when one remembers the circumstances under which the surfmen worked, was their own loss of life while performing rescues during this same period was less than 1%. Truly amazing American heroes. A legendary motto was born on Hatteras Island that says volumes about these men: reportedly, a surfman expressed concern about the conditions they were facing in preparing for a rescue. The Keeper responded "The book says we gotta go out, it doesn't say a damn thing about coming back!" The Service proudly used that motto thereafter.

And It Just Keeps Getting Better

Most visitors to Chicamacomico commonly use terms like "magical," "fascinating," and "incredible" to describe their experience at the site. Many come back year after year, not just to see and hear the same things, but to simply soak up its unique ambiance. Besides, they always find something new. There are changing displays, exhibits, demonstrations, formal and informal programs, original and unusual artifacts, and annual special events. But more than all of that is the place itself. It is a very special place. It tells a heroic story of not only the men who worked there to save other's lives, but a heroic story of how it saved itself.

During the winter of 2005, four of the outbuildings and one of the water tanks were relocated to form two distinct historic districts: 1874 and 1911. As a bonus, a nearby 1907 Hatteras Island house with direct connections to Chicamacomico and the United States Life-Saving Service was moved onto the site. This opens an entirely new and important interpretive theme: family life. Chicamacomico is now an even more very special place.

In the same memorable month the move began, Chicamacomico added another star to its crown. For years, Rear Admiral Stephen Rochon of the United States Coast Guard had wanted to tell the dramatic story of the Pea Island Life-Savers in a powerful way. He had researched and then scripted a documentary. Filming took place primarily on the NC Outer Banks. The original Pea Island Station was long gone, but the 1874 Chicamacomico Station was nearly identical, so obviously it became a primary set. Actual Coast Guardsmen portrayed the Life-Savers. The film was narrated by James Earl Jones and music was by award-winning composer Bobby Horton. The Outer Banks Premiere was sponsored and hosted by Chicamacomico. It was a huge success.

If You're Going

The Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station Historic Site is located in the small village of Rodanthe, North Carolina on Hatteras Island. From the north, travelers will proceed south on US 158 to the Outer Banks, going through the towns of Kitty Hawk, Kill Devil Hills, and Nags Head. Follow signage from Nags Head towards Hatteras Island, turning onto NC Highway 12 South. There you enter the Cape Hatteras National Seashore and will be proceeding south on Bodie (pronounced "Body") Island. On the way, you will pass the Bodie Island Lighthouse. Soon you will come to Oregon Inlet, which you cross over via the two and one-half mile long, very scenic Bonner Bridge. Hatteras Island awaits on the other side. The fist 12 miles is the Pea Island Wildlife National Refuge, a birders paradise. Rising on the flat, barren horizon in the distance like the Emerald City will be the village of Rodanthe Only 7/10 of a mile further, on the left, is Chicamacomico. The entire trip from exiting Nags Head to the site is only 30 minutes, but you will want to make numerous stops along the way. From Chicamacomico to the Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is only another 30 minutes south, and Ocracoke Island is now within striking distance! A very worthwhile and rewarding trip.

From the west travelers will approach the Outer Banks on US 64. Continue to Nags Head, turning right on NC 12 South.

From the south travelers will be coming from Ocracoke. Simply proceed north, for Hatteras Island still only has one road! You will pass through the villages of Hatteras, Frisco, Buxton, Avon, and then "Rodanthe-Waves-Salvo". This can be confusing. You actually will be passing through Salvo, Waves, and then Rodanthe, but you will not be able to tell one from another. Years ago they were quite distinct, but now they have all blended together. The first village you come to from the south will be Salvo. When you pass the Post Office, you are in Waves. When you pass the theme park on both sides of the road, you are in Rodanthe. As soon as you see the Water Treatment Plant on your right, put on your right blinker, Chicamacomico is right around the corner!

Chicamacomico Life-Saving Station Historic Site is a private, non-profit organization funded entirely by admission fees, grants and donations. They can be contacted via

www.chicamacomico.net

 

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